Chimanimani National Park

Declared a national reserve in 2003, and a national park in 2020, the Chimanimani National Park falls under the governance of Zimparks. Together with the Mozambican Chimanimani National Reserve, the two combined wilderness areas form the Chimanimani Transfrontier Conservation Area.

The Chimanimani National Park consists of two separate sectors, one in the west and one in the east. The eastern sector lies on Mozambique border and is characterised by indigenous forests and open mountainous terrain. It covers some 170 km2 at the southern end of the Eastern Highlands, and its extent along the border is about 50 kilometres.

The smaller western sector is located some 20 kilometres inland from the border, and butts up against the small town of Chimanimani.
The mountains were originally named Mawenje, meaning ‘rocky mountains’ and later Chimanimani from the word Tshimanimani, which means ‘squeezed together’. This describes the deep narrow valley where the Musapa River bisects the Chimanimani mountain range.

The park is home to eight biodiversity areas and over 80 archaeological sites, comprising rock art, as well as early and late Iron Age and Stone Age sites. The area is shared with a population of over 135 000 people, 95% of which are rural residents.

For mountain climbing and walking enthusiasts, or anyone interested in rich fauna and flora, Chimanimani is worth a visit. The area teems with birdlife and is home to unusual plant species such as the Pineapple Flower and Water Parsnip.

The eastern sector – which is by far the larger of the two - features massive mountain peaks formed from an ancient, rifted quartzite block, the tallest peak reaching a height of 2 440 metres, with a width of 50 kilometres. The numerous overhangs and caves here were once the dwelling places of early settlers who left their mark by means of rock carvings and paintings. Today, some of these shelters serve as crude overnight accommodation for the more adventurous hikers and rock climbers.

Abundant in forests of yellowwood and cedar trees, Montane grasslands and hundreds of plant and flower species, this is a botanist’s paradise. Plant species, like the Angraecum chimanimaniense, an epiphytic subshrub, are endemic to the park. The forests are also the dwelling place of the near endemic Inyanga river frog. Sadly very little wildlife occurs in the park, due to artisanal miners who search for gold along the riverbanks resulting in much environmental disruption.

A visit-worthy attraction is Peter’s Cave, close to the Bundi River. The so-called cave is actually a disused gold mine shaft, and is sometimes used by hikers as a campsite. Downstream, the river flows into a large deep pool which presents the opportunity for a 7-metre cliff jump into the icy waters. Check the depth of the water before you jump, this is a potentially dangerous activity!

Another popular attraction is Tessa’s Pool, located not too far from the entrance gate into the eastern sector. Named in the 1960s after the daughter of Orchidologist John Ball, the pool is located at the base of a waterfall, in a clearing of thickly-wooded forest, an almost mystical setting. An added highlight is the San rock art paintings adorning some of the rock surfaces in the vicinity. This pool is located on private property belonging to Outward Bound, an outdoors educational group for school children; but it’s easily accessible via a set of wooden steps down into the valley. There is no entrance fee but access may be denied if one of the educational camps is in progress.

The northernmost point of this sector is called The Corner, and refers to the way this part of the park sticks out into Mozambique. The mountain peaks in The Corner are lower than those further south and are separated from the higher peaks by the Musapa Gap; in the past, this valley was used by transport wagons plying the route between the Mozambican Coast (then Portuguese East Africa) and the village of Melsetter. Hikers can explore from Corner Camp (no facilities), or do overnight hikes into the park – be sure to arrange your ranger (more info under Travel Info) and pay at the Zimparks office before departure – there’s no reception at The Corner. The road leading to The Corner is strictly for high-clearance vehicles only, and 4WD capabilities will be essential after rain.

The western sector of the park, often still referred to by its former name, The Eland Sanctuary, is easily reached on foot or by vehicle from Chimanimani town. Though far smaller than its big brother in the east, it boasts its own, easily accessible attractions.

One of the sector’s drawcards are the Bridal Veil Falls, a natural spectacle that’s a four kilometre walk from the town. Note, this walk is quite steep, and will be slippery in wet conditions so be sure to wear appropriate shoes. It’s not ideal for the physically unfit or elderly. If driving to the falls, the track is best navigated in a vehicle with high clearance, particularly after rain.

The small stream which supplies the waterfall meanders through the lush surrounds and plummets down a 50-metre rock face into the sparkling pool, a favoured spot for an icy waterfall shower and swim. The name of these falls refers to their shape. Those hiking to the falls should keep an eye out for a second smaller ‘veil’ found off the main hiking path, on an alternative trail. The falls ceased flowing during Cyclone Idai in 2019, due to a blockage of fallen rocks. They have
however begun to cascade again and were in full flow during our visits.

An entrance fee is payable whether you are walking or driving to the falls. Hikers can get their permit at the Zimparks office in town, while those driving can pay at the entrance gate to the falls. If required, a guide is available from the tourism association in town, or at the Frog and Fern Cottages.

Pork Pie Viewpoint, north of town in the national park, offers amazing views over the town and surrounding mountains. The viewpoint lies at the end of a short, narrow trail which can be negotiated on foot or with a high-clearance vehicle with 4WD, especially in or after rain. You’ll require a permit to visit, which you can obtain from the Zimparks office in town. This same permit can be used to visit Bridal Veils as well as the picnic area around basecamp in the eastern part
of the Chimanimani National Park. It is possible to hike from Bridal Veil Falls to Pork Pie Viewpoint, allow a minimum of 2 hours in one direction.

Monday to Sunday 9am to 5pm

From Mutare take the A9 Chimanimani Road heading south, 66.5 KM turn left onto the A10, 79.5 KM turn right and continue on the A10, 129.60 KM turn left for Chimanimani village, 148.30 KM reach Chimanimani village, 165.5 KM reach ZPWMA base camp

GPS reference: 19⁰47′18.91″S 32⁰59′38.52″E

ACCESS:
The park access is not seasonal - one can really only get to basecamp, or to bridal veil camp, and then you walk/hike from there. Access should be fine, unless if there was exceptional rain than you may not be able to get to bridal veil for 2 or 3 days. But the park won't close officially for a few months.

CAMPING:
There is a basic campsite at Bridal Veil Falls; the ablutions were not functional during our stay and the lapas were in need of repair and maintenance, but the idyllic location on the banks of the stream at the foot of the falls, more than made up for these shortcomings. There are not many campsites where you can fall asleep to the gentle sounds of
falling water. More camping venues, as well as self-catering accommodation, is available in the village itself.

In the eastern sector, hikers can explore from Mutekeswane Base Camp, situated at the foot of the mountains, approximately 19 kilometres east of Chimanimani town. Be prepared for a bumpy drive along the road to the camp. It is rough and best driven in a 4x4 vehicle. The track ends at the camp’s parking lot, further exploration is by foot.
Park and camping fees are payable in cash and visitors are advised to have the exact amount on hand as change is often not available; better yet, prepay at the Zimparks office in town. The campsites at Mutekeswane Base Camp are mostly shaded, each with a braai area and water tap. Ablution facilities are clean, with hot water supplied via a donkey system.
There is no electricity at the camp.

GUIDES AND PORTERS:
Guides and porters can be organised in Chimanimani if you require them. Ask Jane High (0783 835 818) at the Frog and Fern, Chester (+263(0)773231572) at Outward Bound, Tempe (+263(0)772 101 283) at the Farmhouse, Collen, one of the most popular local guides (+263(0)783254868) or Tim Mujuyi (+263(0)779132068), the best bird guide. Remember to take food for your porters and to give them some money for transport back to the village (USD2) if they are leaving you in the mountain, as well as their pay, usually about USD10/day for porters. Guides will charge more. These are not highly trained or qualified guides so please do not rely on them too much but rather use your own common sense.

HIKING:
Due to the presence of informal miners in the eastern sector of the park, it’s compulsory to have an armed ranger accompany you on your hike. The fee is US$5 per day, and it’s highly recommended that you arrange this in advance at the Zimparks office in the village rather than trying to arrange one on your arrival. At the time of writing, it was reported
that the number of miners in the park has decreased somewhat since the use of rangers became compulsory.

Your ranger will be able to guide you to some well-known caves and waterfalls, as well as to your overnight camp and back to basecamp, without getting lost in the myriads of tracks leading through the park. These rangers are used to long distances and are super fit, so be sure to communicate your fitness level, what you want to see and how far you want to
walk - or you could end up covering the entire park in one long day!

Always check with your ranger before wandering off a track. Landmines were laid in the mountain passes of the Chimanimani Mountains during Zimbabwe’s independence war and continue to be a risk, particularly in very wet conditions when they may have been laid bare by erosion. The Mountain Hut, situated at 1 630 metres above sea level, is an unfurnished communal rest stop and shelter, accommodating up to 20 hikers at a time. John Ball, a respected botanist, oversaw the building of the sturdy stone and concrete hut which was completed in 1955, after 18 months of construction.

Bookings cannot be made for this shared accommodation, it is available on a first come, first served basis only, offering basic ablution and cooking facilities. Bring your own mattress, and note that the Mountain Hut is not serviced, so you should clean up before departure and take your refuge with you. Typically, the hike from Base Camp to the hut takes two
to three hours, depending on the selected route. Hikers can set off from the hut to Skeleton Pass, for spectacular views over Mozambique and its highest peak, Mount Binga.
Be sure to have sufficient water, sunblock, a torch and a warm change of clothing when heading out on a hike! Camping and hiking in this park are at visitors’ own risk. If camping overnight in the wet summer season, stick to sites on higher ground. Don’t camp close to rivers as flash floods are not uncommon.

For hiking and camping excursions, the optimum time to visit is March and April, as well as August and September. Temperatures drop below zero from May to July, while November to February are the wet months. There are no facilities in the eastern sector of the park, so be sure to stock up on supplies before you start your hike.

SHOPS & SERVICES:
Major facilities like fuel, banks, hotels and shops are found in Chimanimani town 11km away from the park.
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